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Tuesday, 29 November 2011

Why the diner is the ultimate symbol of America



Neon diner sign

With its chrome counter and cherry pie, the diner is an icon of American culture. What's the global appeal of this humble eatery, asks the BBC's Stephen Smith.

Sitting in a diner, on the inside looking outside.
This is a quintessential American experience. Add a booth, a Formica counter and a cup of joe - as diner patrons call their coffee.
Themed restaurants and burger chains from Mumbai to Manchester aim to replicate this chrome-flashed experience, and diner fare such as home fries and fluffy pancakes are now global fast food staples.
So why are these kerbside kitchens a landmark of US culture?
The first such establishment opened in 1872 in Providence, Rhode Island - a "night lunch wagon" to serve those who worked and played long after the restaurants had shut at 20:00.
Its mix of open-all-hours eating and cheap, homemade food proved a hit, and the formula has been repeated ever since.
Today the diner occupies a place in the American heartland. The closest British approximation is not a retro-chic replica diner where hip patrons eat gourmet burgers, but the local pub.
Just as dignitaries visiting the UK and Ireland are taken for a pint and a photo call, no US election campaign is complete without a stop at a diner to emphasise the candidate's everyman or everywoman credentials.


Five typical diner dishes

Stacked pancakes
  • Pancakes with sausage
  • Eggs over-easy with home fries and toast
  • Cheeseburger deluxe
  • Turkey club
  • Meatloaf dinner
  • "It's comfort food, made from recipes like Mom used to make," says diner owner Otto Meyer

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